Beninese Culture

The Beninese people have an incredible culture that is all their own.  I did not realize that voodoo has its origins in Benin.  There are signs of voodoo almost everywhere.  Many people have small scars (usually three short vertical scars on the cheek) to protect them from bad health.  There are also large Muslim and Christian populations in Benin.  I am told that many people who are Christian or Muslim still believe in Voodoo as well. 

Last weekend we met with the King of Porto Novo.  As we entered his palace, we removed our shoes as a sign of respect.  Only the king can wear shoes on the palatial grounds.  We all bowed when he entered the room.  We were only able to meet with the king because Dr. Sylvain Boko is also a prince here of a region called Pobe.  It turns out that Sylvain is bit of a man of mystery.  The king spoke with us about the history of Benin and Voodoo.  Our meeting with the king will go down as one of the most interesting experiences I have ever had.

Beninese food is also quite interesting.  In some ways it is similar to food I have had in other developing countries (fried fish, rice, and the ubiquitous french fry).  However, this area has its own traditions.  Amiwo is a starch dish made from corn that is unlike anything I have ever eaten.  You grab a scoop of amiwo (with your right hand) and dip it into the sauce of the meat dish.  It is polite to eat only with your right hand.  I have found that eating with one hand can be quite difficult when trying to finish a meal including crab.  You just have to bite into the crab shell and all and then separate the meat and shell in your mouth.  Fun stuff!

Presentation is extremely important here.  It seems like everyone is always dressed up.  Most men seen on the street are wearing button down shirts and nice slacks or the traditional Beninise attire.  Many women wear traditional Beninese dresses that are brightly colored and quite formal.

 

Seminar Preparations Begin

Boko and Snake - BeforeBoko and Snake - AfterFlexibility is the name of the game in preparing for small business seminars in developing countries.  Dr. Boko informed Neela and I that there will likely be two government officials giving opening remarks at our seminar.  Dr. Boko, with the help of his assistant Sylviane, sent letters to the appropriate officials requesting their presence and participation in our seminar.  In Benin, it is important to notify any government officials that work with the small business sector if you plan to interact with the small business community.  So almost immediately upon our arrival here, we quickly began adjusting our schedule.  It's funny, but changing plans makes me feel comfortable in this setting.  If everything went to plan, I would be worried.

 Today we went shopping.  Dr. Boko's sister, Bernadette, and Sylviane helped us pick out (and negotiate prices) for the Beninese outfits we will be wearing during the seminar.  Burnadette just happens to be a talented seamstress that has offered to use her skills to make beautiful African dresses for the women of our group and stylish African shirts for the men (picures yet to come).  I actually ended up buying material for three dress shirts during our trip.  The fabric is beautiful, the craftsmanship is outstanding, and the prices are low. 

We are excited to see Ajay when he arrives tomorrow.  The importance of having the support of such a great leader cannot be understated.

 The rest of our group (James Russell, Serena Rwejena, Sherry Moss, Zach Forward) will arrive on Sunday.

 As promised, above I have attached some pictures from the trip.  Starting with the before and after pictures of Dr. Boko's snake experience seems like an appropriate start.  He looked calm and collected for the first picture.  But once the snake was taken away, his true feelings came out.

Boko with Snake (Before)Boko And SnakeBoko and Snake (After)

First Days in Benin

Hi everyone, my name is Christopher Burch.  I'm a recent graduate of the Babcock School of Management.  I'm writing from an internet cafe in Benin, Africa.  The idea for this trip to Benin was actually conceived in Nicaragua.  I was fortunate to be a founding member of Project Nicaragua.  Project Nicaragua is a student led organization that sends around 15 students to Managua, Nicaragua to put on seminars and consult with small businesses.  Sylvain Boko, a professor in Wake Forest's economics department joined our last trip to Nicaragua.  He immediately became interested in the possibilty of taking the Project Nicaragua seminar and consulting model and bringing it to his home country of Benin.  With the help of Ajay Patel, the dean of Babcock, and the support of the provost's office, the trip was approved.  I could not be more excited about what the next few days have in store for me.

The trip to Benin was quite lengthy.  I flew from Atlanta to Paris and from Paris to Cotonou, Benin.  The total trip, door to door, was clost to 24 hours.  Neela Rajendra, also a recent MBA graduate and member of Project Nicaragua, met me in Paris.  Sylvain Boko had already been in Benin for a couple of weeks with a group of undergrad students.  After landing in Benin and joining the undergrad group for a familiar (much like Nicaragua) meal of rice, fried fish with an onion and tomato sauce, and frech fries with the group of undergrads.  I headed to bed.

Cotonou is on the coast and is the largest city in Benin.  The morning after our arrival, we all piled in a van and headed for a nearby town called Oidah.  In Oidah we visited a sacred forest.  I learned that voodoo, which I had always thought came from Haiti, actually has many of its origins in Benin.  We moved from the sacred forest to visit "The Temple of Snakes".  Snakes are a sacred and respected creature.  Many of us posed for pictures with a very large python.  Dr. Boko even posed with the snake.  Although he looked cool and collected sporting a stone face and stylish sunglasses when the pictures were taken, he showed his true feelings moments after the snake was removed when he bagan jumping around swatting at the snake that had already been taken away.  His signature smile was as big as ever (I will add pictures soon).

The next part of our journey took us down the path that many slaves had been before beeing shipped away.  It was a surreal experience to follow the path that had brought horror to the lives of so many people.  The trip ended with a visit to the "Port of No Return" where slaves boarded ships, many of whom were never seen again.

Next, we visited a school that Dr. Boko is very proud of.  The school is the first of its kind here in Benin.  The school will focus on teaching music and art to the children in the community.  Music and art have rich tradition in western Africa and this school will pay a great tribute to the history and future of the arts in Benin.

I will write agian in the next few days with more tales from Benin.

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